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Friday, May 25th, 2012


drwally

1:24a
TGSS

The Great Southern Slam is coming up very soon. This is the second time it has run.

TGSS is a massive tournament between Australian rollerderby leagues. It has run once before, two years ago.

Last year, VRDL (Victorian Rollerderby League) won the entire thing, out of a field of something like 10 leagues. The trophy was a gilded thong with skates on.

It was a formative experience for both skating leagues and audience. Last time, disparate elements of SSRD attended. This year, South Sea are fielding a travel team, in the same class as VRDL, GRDL, and many other established and skilled national leagues such as the Sun State RollerGirls, Canberra, and NSW leagues. It really sorted out which leagues were which, but in a way, was no definite call on the skill of any league, as each travel team is in a state of flux, always, because of the non-professional makeup of each league.

Any league playing this year cannot be quantified based on two years ago due to new skaters and leaving skaters. New skaters may be super-talented, and leaving skaters may have burned out, had career requirements, or be having babies! But the big established leagues with multiple teams have the advantage. They have the choice to pick their best players. GRDL's travel team has remained fairly stable. VRDL's strict training and high numbers mean they are still favorites. They recently went to the US and scored 5th out of 10 teams in a regional tourney. They are still the favorite for TGSS, in my opinion.

South Sea just scraped into qualifying, only because the conditions rule a league must be operating for 3 years to play. SSRD played their first bouts 3 years ago but technically have only been bouting for 2 and half years.

Rostering and programming put them up against GRDL and SSRG in the first day. SSRD have one loss against GRDL and have not played Sun State. Sun State were semi finalists in the last TGSS, losing to VRDL. So South Sea have the odds stacked against them.

I want them to beat Geelong and I think they can. Geelong are vicious, strong and fast, but South Sea have been training hard and have a lot of good new talent. I think that even one win on the first day may put them into a second day. Even though I worry about the team having to play two bouts in one day.

Everyone at South Sea wants to make it to the second day. For that to happen would be the greatest win for South Sea so far. I love this league, but I'm going to put it at even odds. Especially since they play Sun State second.

No matter what happens, being part of TGSS is grand for any league. If this burgeoning league of Frankston upstarts make some impact, I'll be happy. I'll be at home with my darling pregnant wife cheering them on, and be back on the job when they get back. Win or lose, we'll get some better skaters out of this.

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Thursday, May 24th, 2012


bruce_schneier
6:17a
The Banality of Surveillance Photos

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/the_banality_of.html

Interesting essay on a trove on surveillance photos from Cold War-era Prague.

Cops, even secret cops, are for the most part ordinary people. Working stiffs concerned with holding down jobs and earning a living. Even those who thought it was important to find enemies recognized the absurdity of their task.

I take photos all the time and these empty blurry frames tell me that they were made intentionally. Shot out of boredom, as little acts of defiance, the secret police wandered the streets of Prague for twenty years taking lousy pictures of people from far away because a job is a job.

Occasionally something interesting happened, like spotting a hot stylish, American made Ford Mustang Sally. However, it must have been an awful job, with dull days that turned into months and years, of killing time between lunch and dinner.


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erudito

8:12a
Catania Wednesday

Balconies in Catania seem mostly for show, though they do seem to be good places to put potted plants (sometimes a bit sad), air-conditioners and satellite dishes. School groups seem quite common; the children seem generally well-behaved. It actually rained Tuesday night (naturally, since I had put out some more handwashing that morning, but it was mostly dry). While I would not want to have it as a permanent regime, do find handwashing restful.

Wednesday
After breakfast at Cafe Bruca (croissant filled with apricot jam) and hot chocolate (dark) went to the Tourist information office, N asking about buses and trains to Syracuse was not so successful with the young lady there. So, went to the railway station and found that next train to Siracusa was 12.45 (the 10.08 express apparently did not count). Failing to find anything resembling a regional time table or place to buy tickets at the adjacent bus terminal, wandered back to Tourist information office, where asking the middle aged man now manning the desk about Siracusa was more successful, he giving us a bus timetable and directions to the other bus terminal.

We took one of the local open deck bus tours of Catania, which was of some interest (mainly due to the commentary) but we have clearly seen most of what there is to see in Catania. Wandered back to the Cathedral, which really is a splendid neoclassical cathedral in its interior. Then a few tourist shops (mainly to buy postcards and in the vague hope the rather good Acicastello castle t-shirt might be on sale; it wasn't) then checked out the bus terminal near the port, which had a clear place to buy tickets. Then through the markets, where I bought another wedge of cheese to sample and back to Trattoria Vecchi Sapori in Piazza Mazzini where we shared a litre of vino bianca and both had spaghetti amatricana.

We retired for a quite time of reading, sleeping, writing. Then off to a walk so I could take some pictures of the electric halo added to the C18th statue of St Agatha in the Piazza del Matiri then back for some kebabs, buying a Peroni Gran Riserva for me and one of N's girlie drinks (he wanted some alcohol that wasn't wine) some watching of Italian TV (Walker, Texas Ranger seemed the best offering) and, eventually, to bed.


current mood: cheerful

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Wednesday, May 23rd, 2012


bruce_schneier
12:32p
Lessons in Trust from Web Hoaxes

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/lessons_in_trus.html

Interesting discussion of trust in this article on web hoaxes.

Kelly's students, like all good con artists, built their stories out of small, compelling details to give them a veneer of veracity. Ultimately, though, they aimed to succeed less by assembling convincing stories than by exploiting the trust of their marks, inducing them to lower their guard. Most of us assess arguments, at least initially, by assessing those who make them. Kelly's students built blogs with strong first-person voices, and hit back hard at skeptics. Those inclined to doubt the stories were forced to doubt their authors. They inserted articles into Wikipedia, trading on the credibility of that site. And they aimed at very specific communities: the "beer lovers of Baltimore" and Reddit.

That was where things went awry. If the beer lovers of Baltimore form a cohesive community, the class failed to reach it. And although most communities treat their members with gentle regard, Reddit prides itself on winnowing the wheat from the chaff. It relies on the collective judgment of its members, who click on arrows next to contributions, elevating insightful or interesting content, and demoting less worthy contributions. Even Mills says he was impressed by the way in which redditors "marshaled their collective bits of expert knowledge to arrive at a conclusion that was largely correct." It's tough to con Reddit.

[...]

If there's a simple lesson in all of this, it's that hoaxes tend to thrive in communities which exhibit high levels of trust. But on the Internet, where identities are malleable and uncertain, we all might be well advised to err on the side of skepticism.


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bruce_schneier
7:25a
Privacy Concerns Around "Social Reading"

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/privacy_concern.html

Interesting paper: "The Perils of Social Reading," by Neil M. Richards, from the Georgetown Law Journal.

Abstract: Our law currently treats records of our reading habits under two contradictory rules ­ rules mandating confidentiality, and rules permitting disclosure. Recently, the rise of the social Internet has created more of these records and more pressures on when and how they should be shared. Companies like Facebook, in collaboration with many newspapers, have ushered in the era of “social reading,” in which what we read may be “frictionlessly shared” with our friends and acquaintances. Disclosure and sharing are on the rise.

This Article sounds a cautionary note about social reading and frictionless sharing. Social reading can be good, but the ways in which we set up the defaults for sharing matter a great deal. Our reader records implicate our intellectual privacy ­ the protection of reading from surveillance and interference so that we can read freely, widely, and without inhibition. I argue that the choices we make about how to share have real consequences, and that “frictionless sharing” is not frictionless, nor it is really sharing. Although sharing is important, the sharing of our reading habits is special. Such sharing should be conscious and only occur after meaningful notice.

The stakes in this debate are immense. We are quite literally rewiring the public and private spheres for a new century. Choices we make now about the boundaries between our individual and social selves, between consumers and companies, between citizens and the state, will have unforeseeable ramifications for the societies our children and grandchildren inherit. We should make choices that preserve our intellectual privacy, not destroy it. This Article suggests practical ways to do just that.


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halloranelder

8:44p
Pheno Accommodation?

Right, so my planned Pheno accommodation has fallen through, so need to look for something else.

Is there anyone who would be happy to put up with me as a house guest for Pheno this year? I fly in to Canberra on the Friday afternoon (8th June) and fly out Tuesday afternoon (12th June), so would need a bed for four nights.

This entry was originally posted at http://halloranelder.dreamwidth.org/16157.html. Comments are accepted here or there using OpenID.


current mood: busy

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erudito

6:22a
Catania Monday and Tuesday

Monday
After croissant filled with custard and two hot chocolates (the hot chocolates in Sicily have been spectacular) at Cafe Bruca, wandered off to the C13th castle built by Frederico di Svebia, which was wonderful (apart from the lack of a guide book to buy and not allowed to take photos inside). Thick walls, vaulted stone ceilings, medieval and later windows, Roman and Greek artifacts on the first floor (including some terrific pottery) and fairly ordinary C16th-C19th art on the second floor. But you could wander around the outside and the internal courtyard; which had various classical findings piled up in one corner, including 4 splendid examples of Roman trade amphora which deserved better treatment. The castle was a royal residence and the place the first Sicilian Parliament (1283) met. Later a viceregal residence, then administrative centre then prison. Originally it was on the sea cost, but lava flows from the 1669 eruption meant it became 2kms(!) from the sea and the 1693 earthquake destroyed two small towers and damaged one of the big corner ones.

Then lunch at Trattoria Panineria Noe in Piazza Mazzini. Had a pleasantly buttery spaghetti carbonara with white wine (N reported the carbonara at the place across from it in the Piazza had been better). Walked to the internet Cafe Bruca (another hot chocolate) then to the Tourist Information centre. Then, with a bit of back-tracking, off to the Roman Amphitheatre (or the part that was excavated and no under roads and buildings), which one could walk around but not in. N felt it was rather unloved. Still, it gave a good sense of a large provincial Roman Ampitheatre, with an estimated seating of c.16,000 (which made it one of the larger in the Roman Empire).

Then onto the Greek Theatre, whose entrance in the Via Victor Emmanuelle II is easy to miss (we had walked past it several times since we got here). The Roman ampitheatre s just an open space with a fence, the Greek Theatre required tickets for entry. It had an estimated seating of 7,000 in the main theatre and 1,300 in the Odeon. But you could walk through and over it, since almost all of it has been excavated. The Graeco-Roman brickwork was considerably better than the medieval brickwork of what looked like might have been medieval cisterns.

At neither the Castle nor the Greek Theatre was there anything for sale apart from entry tickets. Everywhere we went in Malta, they were only too ready to sell you useful guide books (in several languages), relevant reference works and fictional treatments plus all sorts of souvenirs. They were also (generally) much better at signposting things. The Maltese were almost annoyingly keen to sell you things; in Catania, commercial opportunities seem to go begging. Catania does not seem to entirely understand what Malta does--if you are going to keep your historical sights preserved, they need an income source. Catania also has beggars, which Malta does not.

While the EU flag is in evidence in Catania, it was much more evident in Malta. Of course, so was EU spending. Horns seem to be a necessary part of Mediterranean driving. In Catania, like much of Malta, they are useful for announcing your impending emergence around a blind corner (of which there are quite a few).

Then to the Cathedral of Saint Agatha, a very tasteful Baroque exterior but more Neo-classical interiors cathedral built to replace the damage to the Norman cathedral in the 1693 earthquake. We both greatly preferred it to the appallingly vulgar Baroque cathedral of St John in Valetta. Followed by a bookshop and back to the flat. Had a light meal of bread with cheese then butter and honey. Rested for a while, N wrote, I dozed, then out for a walk and a little bit of shopping. Found Peroni Gran Reserva, one of my favourite beers, which made me happy. There was a Bellini concert in one of the main squares. Then to bed.

Tuesday
Next day, back to Cafe Bruca--a white hot chocolate and a chocolate filled croissant this time. Then we walked to the 1943 Bombardment Museum, which was fabulous. The best interactive experience so far and clearly one of the best war museums anywhere. Covers the Sicilian campaign of July-August 1943, but does it splendidly. Including sitting in an air raid shelter during a simulated bombing raid. It is apparently aimed at school groups, one of which was going through while we were there. As is apparently typical in Catania, no guide book or souvenirs to buy.

Then took a taxi up the coast to Acicastello, which has a splendid Norman castle on a promontory and the islands who myth says the blinded Cyclops threw into the sea at Odysseus. Had some amazing self-service antipasto at Pizzeria al Tubo with white wine. I also had some Spaghetti alla Palermitana (sardines with pine nuts) which was also splendid. The TV was on (a daytime soap; impossibly pretty people interacting melodramatically). N loved the Italian ads, which always seemed to have a self-deprecating tone.

Waddled off (my lunch was very filling) to explore the splendid (largely intact) C11th Norman castle. N declared it the most defensible medieval fortification he had seen. Mounted on a spur of volcanic rock, only approachable through a narrow ledge, its lord would have been lord of all he surveyed. Back in Catania, I had thought the contrast between the Graeco-Roman brickwork and later medieval brickwork fairly sad, a sign of a loss of skills. But the castle at Acicastello is an immensely impressive feat of construction. Yes, the brick work lacks the symmetry and fine finish of the Graeco-Roman work of a thousand years earlier, but it was almost a thousand years old and going strong. Moreover, an imposing castle had been built on top of sheer rock with very narrow access (which had to be constructed in the first place). All done by hand plus a few pulleys; sheer determination being literally on display. The grasping energy of the Normans resonating down the centuries. They were, however, a small ruling elite and the residual has clearly long since diluted away--once again, nothing resembling guide books or souvenirs for sale, but there was a display table of such things, with absolutely no indication of where they might be purchased.

Got a bus back; payment was not required (apparently because we were ignorant foreigners and had not pre-purchased the right card--the equivalent of the MyKi disease has apparently struck here too). While Acicastello itself was clearly fairly prosperous (lots of professional offices and some smart modern houses built to fit into the streetscape) as we went through the rural bit of the trip, you could see that Sicily was richer than Malta; volcanic soil being much more fertile than Malta's. Clearly, however, Malta is better organised so query how long Sicily will remain richer.

Looking out at what I now recognise as volcanic rock from past lava flows forming the coast line and thinking of how the C13th castle used to be one the coast but is now 2kms from it due to a 1669 eruption, this land may be old in human civilisation terms but it is young and active geologically. Being Australian means a very odd placement in terms of "young/old". Geologically very old land, in terms of human habitation old (much older than Europe); in terms of being a country young but with one of the first and oldest continuous democracies in the modern world and one the older continuously operating constitutions. Government spends about 34% of Australia's GDP, much lower than in Europe; but the Europeans don't seem to get much out of that extra 10+ %pts of GDP spent by the political-bureaucratic elites who brought us the Euro.

After a lounge around back to the flat, went out so N could have a pasta (carbonara) at the local Piazza. We both had a bianca vino and then wandered into the main square for some gelati (we had better in Malta) then back home. While we were dining, a local and an East Asian guy turned up on a motorcycle and were joined by other East Asian and local young men taking a table in the corner of the piazza; clearly united by some common interest but not clear what. Motorcycles are rare; motor scooters are much more common and make perfect sense for the narrow, winding streets.

Principles of Mediterranean driving seem to be--horns are a form of communication, it is preferred if you indicate and whatever you are doing, do it clearly. They may not let you do it, but they want to know what you are trying to do.

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aus_gamers

[ makoknight ]
6:20a
Pheno Registration Closes May 31st!

Hi again, folks!

With the stars aligned and the scheduling team screaming in terror, we now know that Phenomenon 2012 will be closing rego on the Thursday, 31st of May. So if you want to register, now is the time!

Tabletops, Freeforms, Pathfinder, Story Games a la carte, and of course, sacrifices to the great Morphthulhu! Come along, and join us for Canberra's apocalypsiest roleplaying convention.

Details, as always, are at our website. We look forward to seeing you there!

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Tuesday, May 22nd, 2012


bruce_schneier
1:10p
Racism as a Vestigal Remnant of a Security Mechanism

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/racism_as_a_ves.html

"Roots of Racism," by Elizabeth Culotta in Science:

Our attitudes toward outgroups are part of a threat-detection system that allows us to rapidly determine friend from foe, says psychologist Steven Neuberg of ASU Tempe. The problem, he says, is that like smoke detectors, the system is designed to give many false alarms rather than miss a true threat. So outgroup faces alarm us even when there is no danger.

Lots of interesting stuff in the article. Unfortunately, it requires registration to access.


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bruce_schneier
6:24a
Security Incentives and Advertising Fraud

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/security_incent.html

Details are in the article, but here's the general idea:

Let's follow the flow of the users:
  1. Scammer buys user traffic from PornoXo.com and sends it to HQTubeVideos.
  2. HQTubeVideos loads, in invisible iframes, some parked domains with innocent-sounding names (relaxhealth.com, etc).
  3. In the parked domains, ad networks serve display and PPC ads.
  4. The click-fraud sites click on the ads that appear within the parked domains.
  5. The legitimate publishers gets invisible/fraudulent traffic through the (fraudulently) clicked ads from parked domains.
  6. Brand advertisers place their ad on the websites of the legitimate publishers, which in reality appear within the (invisible) iframe of HQTubeVideos.
  7. AdSafe detects the attempted placement within the porn website, and prevents the ads of the brand publisher from appearing in the legitimate website, which is hosted within the invisible frame of the porn site.

Notice how nicely orchestrated is the whole scheme: The parked domains "launder" the porn traffic. The ad networks place the ads in some legitimately-sounding parked domains, not in a porn site. The publishers get traffic from innocent domains such as RelaxHealth, not from porn sites. The porn site loads a variety of publishers, distributing the fraud across many publishers and many advertisers.

The most clever part of this is that it makes use of the natural externalities of the Internet.

And now let's see who has the incentives to fight this. It is fraud, right? But I think it is well-executed type of fraud. It targets and defrauds the player that has the least incentives to fight the scam.

Who is affected? Let's follow the money:

  • The big brand advertisers (Continental, Coca Cola, Verizon, Vonage,...) pay the publishers and the ad networks for running their campaigns.
  • The publishers pay the ad network and the scammer for the fraudulent clicks.
  • The scammer pays PornoXo and TrafficHolder for the traffic.

The ad networks see clicks on their ads, they get paid, so not much to worry about. They would worry if their advertisers were not happy. But here we have a piece of genius:

The scammer did not target sites that would measure conversions or cost-per-acquisition. Instead, the scammer was targeting mainly sites that sell pay-per-impression ads and video ads. If the publishers display CPM ads paid by impression, any traffic is good, all impressions count. It is not an accident that the scammer targets publishers with video content, and plenty of pay-per-impression video ads. The publishers have no reason to worry if they get traffic and the cost-per-visit is low.

Effectively, the only one hurt in this chain are the big brand advertisers, who feed the rest of the advertising chain.

Do the big brands care about this type of fraud? Yes and no, but not really deeply. Yes, they pay for some "invisible impressions". But this is a marketing campaign. In any case, not all marketing attempts are successful. Do all readers of Economist look at the printed ads? Hardly. Do all web users pay attention to the banner ads? I do not think so. Invisible ads are just one of the things that make advertising a little bit more expensive and harder. Consider it part of the cost of doing business. In any case, compared to the overall marketing budget of these behemoths, the cost of such fraud is peanuts.

The big brands do not want their brand to be hurt. If the ads do not appear in places inappropriate for the brand, things are fine. Fighting the fraud publicly? This will just associate the brand with fraud. No marketing department wants that.


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neefsck

4:48p
Face. Off.

So..I get looks of confusion when I try to explain how I managed to get *out* of my cot and fall onto my bottle thereby making a mess of my face and scaring my parents half to death.
I can practically see the scenarios running through their heads as they try to envision it.

To this end, I present you with this little Animated Gif.

http://imgur.com/r/funny/weUCL

I can imagine it went something like that - except for that fact that I was just a few days shy of my 1st birthday.

Apparently, I was rather precocious when it came to the whole getting around on my own thing - As was Annie I'm given to understand.

This perhaps does not bode well for us as parents (or Jasper for that matter)


current mood: calm

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fraerie

11:49a
Job Hunt 2012 update

2nd interview on Friday afternoon including the technical assessment.

I need to decide whether to bring a change of clothes or whether to wear a suit all day.

If I go with option 2 I'm going to stick out like a sore thumb in the middle of the help desk all morning.

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Monday, May 21st, 2012


bruce_schneier
10:32a
Portrait of a Counterfeiter

http://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2012/05/portrait_of_a_c.html

Interesting article from Wired.


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neefsck

5:38p
Old and New.

I'm resurrecting an old idea, and starting a new type of project as well.

The Old :
Basically - now that I have the decks set up again and hooked into the house network properly I'm going to start doing a (semi) weekly/regular set type of thing.

The New :
The new bit is that I've put together a blog type thing to host it - and that lives here.
Right now, its pretty simple - Just with the words on the screen and the links to the sets (when one is done) embedded there etc.
Depending on how things go I might see about adding some sort of notification thing / 'subscribe to this blog' sort of thing, but right now I'll just let you know via LJ / Twitter and Google plus (maybe) that theres a new entry / set up.

This will not be an LJ replacement I have no immediate plans to move from LJ - I still like it here and its still a fantastic way to engage with people and *not* use facebook.

I did however, want to start a new type of thing where I could have a little more control over the appearance etc of the blog - (so it may change from time to time) as well as satisfy my need for 'tinkering' of sorts. If only to help me feel a little more creative.

Wether or not I start writing with any regularity again I don't know. But that might end up there as well - I'm still somewhat exploring the possibility of this thing.

So that'll be starting (again) soonish.
It would be awesome it if takes off some - and if you listen, then I hope you enjoy it!


current mood: nervous

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erudito

9:15a
From Malta to Catania

"It's Malta", the good-natured statement by the large, cheerful English lady who sold, and later refunded, our cancelled-cruise tickets seems a good summary. At the local taxi rank, taxi drivers wait in shade chatting, smoking, rather than sitting alone in cabs. Maltese guide books are generally well done--clear, informative, not big-noting.

The educated Maltese middle class of the 1930s (what would now be known as the chattering class) was eager for Malta to embrace its Italian nationhood and destiny: what a bad idea that was, Malta is so much better off not being part of Italy. But, given the educated middle class tends to control the framing of public debate, whatever its current enthusiasms are often seem more compelling than later experience suggests was warranted.

How small Malta seems from air, as we fly over it; Sicily is clearly much greener.

Met at Catania airport by our landlord, taken to apartment (in Vico Castro). Like the apartment in Malta, in an old building but with recent internal modernisation. Much better supplied with cleaning liquids. After settling in (which required form filing in with passports: none of that in Malta) and payment, the landlord left and N and I took a short walk to main square (which is fairly magnificent). On way back, I bought some yoghurt and we had some delicious pasta at Trattoria Sapora with a generous glass of wine each.

Saturday
Breakfast at an internet Cafe Bruca in Via Victor Emmanuele II, whose card was given to us at the Tourist Information Office. Great hot chocolates. Then walked through extensive markets, down towards the South of the city. This turned out to be not very productive, being mainly industrial and dilapidated. Colourful two horse carts blaring music were a charming interlude. Guy driving off on motor scooter with toddler under one arm was striking. Came back to the main square, had another great pasta (linguine ai frutti de mare; N had a capriciosa pizza, also very good) then some nutella-flavoured ice-cream at Caffe del Duomo. Walked around the newer bits of the older part of town and then back to the apartment. Catania was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1693, no doubt the same earthquake that demolished much of Mdina on Malta.
Came back, I slept, N wrote. Went out, got some kebabs and Mexican beer (Sol). Discovered a trick--go to the Indian run places, they speak English. Took them back to apartment.

Sunday
Went for a walk down to the seafront, which is cut off from pedestrians by the train tracks. But, as N said, where else could they put them? The railway station was built to fit in with the C18th architecture. There is also a 1920s (judging from the free-form rocks) fountain of a classical god seizing a resisting naked female form. Passed what was not so much a red light district as, in N's words, a dull globe district. Two corners on which ladies of negotiable affection plied their trade. On one corner there was what I can only described as a "dolled up dyke" plus a lady of ample breasts amply on display. The next corner had three grimly middle-aged ladies who seemed neither particularly up for negotiation or notably capable of affection.

Catania does not have the women's underwear ads that were such a feature of Malta. Compared to Malta, there is a distinct lack of billboards.

Mary was omnipresent in Malta but, without that, Catholic public religious art is very masculine. Had a light breakfast at a il Chioschetto Breakfast Bar--sugar is apparently compulsory for breakfast (I had a nutella croissant), though it served the bitterest hot chocolate I have had since Pellegrinis. Walked back to apartment. On way, I stopped off for some interneting at an Internet Cafe run, like the Kebab place and a mini market I bought yoghurt in, by Indians who seem to a feature of the retail life of Catania. Using Explorer (having been a Mac boy for quite a while now) with Italian menus, a mouse without a pad and an Italian keyboard (the @ was a third choice on a key, for example) was a bit of a challenge.

Back at the apartment, experienced the joys of handwashing clothes and hanging them out on balcony to dry. The latter is much more a feature of Catania than Malta.

Rather more Africans in evidence in Catania than in Malta. For lunch, had swordfish and red cabbage (plus finishing off N's meat sauce penne) at Cafe Prestipino with a glass of rather pleasant white wine. It was a point-and-order place. The swordfish was a little dry, but flavoursome (and went particularly well with the red cabbage) while the pasta was excellent.

Walked up the Via Etna to a sadly neglected, but nicely laid out, hillside gardens that modern roads had entirely cut off from convenient pedestrian access, despite the gardens clearly being visible the entire length of the Via Etna. Walked back down the Via Empedocles which angled off to the South. It seemed to roughly mark the boundary between the old city and the new city--the latter mostly full of modernist apartments of varying degrees of appalling, some of which were already in a considerable state of decay. Quite a few Chinese restaurants as one walks around Catania but no sign of any actual Chinese folk (perhaps said restaurants are also run by Indians?).

After a bit of a break, wandered out and had a lovely dinner at Osteria Antica Sicilia, a more upmarket place with gracious but harassed and over-worked waiters. I had a lovely scaloppine al funghi with salad (red cabbage even), N had a fine steak with grilled vegetables with a chalice of wine each--a nice amount. The whites have persistently been better than the reds. N then had a ricotta cheese cake with pistacchio and almonds, I had a chocolate covered profiterole filled with panna cotta (bliss).

Then we wandered for a walk, finding that if one turned right rather than left down the street Vico Castro comes off (Via Austeri) around the corner is a full C13th castle. Built by Federick of Swabia (i.e. Federick II Stupor Mundi Hohenstaufen). Makes me happy. Took a walk through parts of centre of old city had not seen before. Clearly, the night club district. Sunday night appears t be the night out night. Even more police in evidence than normal. Then home.


current mood: cheerful

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